19: tinker, tailor, soldier, sailor

Before we left Vienna city limits, we made a pit stop at the Karl Marx Hof.

Designed to provide thousands of residents with amenities, the Karl Marx-Hof was the site of the "February Uprising," where dissidents barricaded themselves during the Austrian Civil War. The square outside the subway stop is called "12 Februar Platz" in memorial of this.

I could talk about that particular landmark all day, but we have a lot to cover, so I move on~

Ah, the quaint town of Klosterneuberg! As much as I enjoyed the small town of Eisenstadt, this town reminded me a bit of Berkeley: hilly, with cute houses and quiet streets. At the center of the town, the Klosterneuberg Monastery sits atop a small hill. Built in 1114, this impressive structure was founded by Leopold III of Babenberg (the patron saint of Austria!) As myth states, Leopold and his wife were on the balcony of their new castle in Klosterneuberg, when his wife's veil was swept away by the wind. It could not be found on the castle grounds, so the couple went about their business. However, many years later, Leopold was on a hunting expedition when a mysterious piece of cloth caught his eye. Lo and behold, the long lost veil had become tangled on a tree branch - and was still in perfect condition, years later! Truly a miracle in Leopold's life, and the Virgin Mary appeared to him at this revelatory moment. He promised to erect a monastery at the very location that the veil was found. And so....Klosterneubrg monastery was built.

A baroque Catholic design, which a touch of Gothic.

After some quick souvenir shopping (I promise you, my epic shopping post is coming,) we were joined by Father Ambros. Perhaps my very favorite tour guide thus far, Father Ambros was adorably passionate about his home and history at the monastery. He whisked us quickly through the treasury of the Church. 

Father Ambros explaining about these wonderfully bejeweled saint's skulls. Martyrs: the ones who had the violence done to them, not the ones who perform violent acts! Also: A priest explaining skulls to me? Let this dream never end.

As a complete sucker for any sort of clothing/uniform trivia and talk (clothing is sort of my thing,) Father Ambros gave us a run down of the different garments used by those in the faith. I was elated!

The basic uniform worn by those in the monastery on the day-to day. Two laters, the white cloth underneath and the black robe over. The white cloth can theoretically be worn by any Christian (think baptismal garments....) The black robe and sash is given when one graduates to status of clergy. But, street clothes can be worn when making an expedition down to Vienna. I'll explain the white scarf in a second...

The robes used for more specific events, such as Mass. This would go over the black ensemble (yikes, sweaty.) Such detail, the pictures never do these robes justice.

The very traditional Augustinian lace and hat, used since Middle Ages. This is a bit cumbersome as things go, explained the Father, so the white scarf over the black robe is used to symbolize this without actually having to wear it.

♪ ♫ ♩ ♬

Father Ambros showed us so very many precious artifacts that it would take me all night to show them all, but the prize jewel of the Monastery collection is the Verdun Altar. 

A triptych altar, with exquisite gold and enamel work.

Constructed by Nicholas of Verdun, this is one of three identifiable pieces of his work in the entire world. Made up of 51 panels, they depict scenes from the Bible. A few panels (six) were sadly once destroyed by a fire and had to be replaced. They are a tad inferior to the brilliance of the rest of the work.

Detail of Ascension panel, I love the feet

The brilliant gold and rich enamel color is hard to describe. It's as crisp and clean as when it was crafted in the 1100s. This cannot be understated, the shine has not dulled nor turned brassy over the centuries. Truly stunning.

Atop the altar, a reliquary containing Saint Leopold's bones. A reliquary is essentially a container for precious objects, including bones or skulls or pieces of the cross or clothing, etc. The Catholic reliquaries we have seen on our journey are all very, very ornate. Father Ambros told us that the reliquaries were made in gold and precious jewels not as a show of wealth, but as an offering to God. Essentially, gold and jewels are the best that we as lowly humans can offer.

byeeeeee

(I feel it necessary to add as a postscript after the fact - I completely fell head over heels in love with Klosterneuberg. I visited again on the 28th, and my only regret of the trip is that I couldn't visit just once more. I am nothing close to Catholic - in fact, the mass attended on the 28th was the first time I had ever sat through a Catholic service. But the monastery at the top of the hill weaseled its way into my heart. It's rare that I become so quickly attached to such a foreign, unfamiliar place. But that is the magic of Vienna, yes? May I be so blessed to return at a later date.)