21. - 23. - Architecture, Art, and Cabaret
German word of the day, August 21: das Elendsquartier. It means "slum." There aren't many slums to speak of here! But, I am sure they exist.
German word of the day, August 22: vermissen. To miss! I certainly miss my husband and cats, but I will miss Vienna as well.
German word of the day, August 23: die Adventszeit. Advent season. The time before Christmas.
On Thursday, we visited the Leopold Museum, guided once again by Lisa and her extensive knowledge of art history. The museum was slightly smaller than some of the others we've visited, and much smaller than the Kunsthistorisches Museum (which I need to revisit before I leave!) With a more modern bent, the Leopold contains 20th century works of art, including lots of Klimt and Schiele, and other works characteristic of the Succession art movement. Surprisingly, the Leopold Museum is not named for Leopold I and his impressive chin, but rather named for Rudolph Leopold, an Austrian art collector.
Before I delve into the Succession works, it is important to note that this art movement began as a response to extravagant classic art and architecture styles, such as the dramatic baroque. The Secessionists believed that the traditional art and architecture of past eras was not representative of modern sensibilities, and wished to embark on creating relative works for the modern era. Stripping down visual elements, the artists of the movement favored minimalist designs, brilliant colors, and evocative imagery.
German word of the day, August 22: vermissen. To miss! I certainly miss my husband and cats, but I will miss Vienna as well.
German word of the day, August 23: die Adventszeit. Advent season. The time before Christmas.
On Thursday, we visited the Leopold Museum, guided once again by Lisa and her extensive knowledge of art history. The museum was slightly smaller than some of the others we've visited, and much smaller than the Kunsthistorisches Museum (which I need to revisit before I leave!) With a more modern bent, the Leopold contains 20th century works of art, including lots of Klimt and Schiele, and other works characteristic of the Succession art movement. Surprisingly, the Leopold Museum is not named for Leopold I and his impressive chin, but rather named for Rudolph Leopold, an Austrian art collector.
Before I delve into the Succession works, it is important to note that this art movement began as a response to extravagant classic art and architecture styles, such as the dramatic baroque. The Secessionists believed that the traditional art and architecture of past eras was not representative of modern sensibilities, and wished to embark on creating relative works for the modern era. Stripping down visual elements, the artists of the movement favored minimalist designs, brilliant colors, and evocative imagery.
A poster for the Secession gallery, perfect example of the stripped down visual elements favored by the artists of the movement. Of note, the typography used at the bottom is also commonly found in many 1960s era concert posters as seen here.
While I have mentioned Klimt previously (who is probably the most well known Secessionist,) Egon Schiele is my favorite artist of the movement. His work is deceptively complex, the linework and thick paint exhibiting a harshness that isn't found in Klimt's work. While the shimmering gold and millefleurs are striking, I prefer Schiele's twisted physicality, embodying a troubled fantasy rather than an idyllic beauty.
Egon Schiele's self portrait. This exaggerated hand pose is repeated throughout his works.
One of the most prolific Secessionists, Otto Wagner, leaves his mark all over Vienna. As an architect and designer, Wagner employed a style of functionality with minimal ornamentation. Examining his designs, it is obvious that he was a firm modernist, yet there are traces of classic elegance. Our closest subway stop, the Burgasse-Stadhalle station, was designed by him.
Our stop! The compact, simple structure, with green accents.
Wagner's gate design. While the green color is not original, it has become associated with his work and is found on many buildings he created.
It is also of note that the Secession movement and Art Nouveau work hand-in-hand. Known as the Jugendstil in German, artists such as Koloman Moser employed organic elements into highly stylized work. The American Art Nouveau counterpart is famous for inspiring pieces such as Tiffany lamps.
Moser's stained glass window, which was commissioned for a building that Otto Wagner designed. (c. 1904.) Note the subtle change in the angel's pose from frame to frame - almost like it's animated!
Art Nouveau pieces by Moriz Jung, 1915.
This Jugendstil style brings me to one of my favorite parts of the Secession movement, the Cabaret Fledermaus. Opened at the turn of the 20th century and designed as an opulent theatre which displayed art and furniture by artists who favor the Jugenstil look and feel, Cabaret Fledermaus featured plays, movies, and other entertainment. It was a grand operation that was due to fail, the club eventually went bankrupt due to excessive expense.
A wonderful poster design for the Cabaret c. 1907, by Jozef Diveky. "Fledermaus" means "bat!" Literally, "flying mouse."
While the original Cabaret Fledermaus is long gone, its spirit lives on in a club/disco of the same name. Located at a stone's throw from St. Stephen's Cathedral, the modern Cabaret has a variety of theme nights. I wandered in there on Friday night, which is a combination 80s/90s dance party, and had a blast. It was packed!
A rare selfie from me, trying to channel a little Jugendstil in the Cabaret.
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